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Superior Rare, sets regional dining standards. Excellent Special, excels in most every category of the dining experience. Very Good Interesting, with above-average food. Hit-or-miss Too inconsistent for a strong recommendation.

An international flavor – paella to osso buco, modern Mexican to Nashville hot chicken – has energized this downtown strip and surrounding area. Cantina in Fort Washington remains the best of the Feliz family from Brian Sirhal and chef Tim Spinner, who’ve created here one of the region’s most satisfying Nuevo Mexican dining experiences, blending a colorful, casual space with outgoing service, excellent tequila cocktails, myriad fresh guacamole variations and a menu built to please a broad audience. Comida has a crisper modern style, the rustic little BYOB called 555 Lagiola was decisively superior in back-to-back meals. Don’t let chef Po Le’s country of origin fool you. Since coming to America from Vietnam in 1982, he has worked almost exclusively in Italian kitchens, from Il Gallo Nero to La Veranda and then San Marco, where over 14 years he worked his way up to executive chef. But Po Le is also an excellent place to order a whole fish like fresh Dover sole, which came expertly pan-seared with a lemony caper olive oil sauce.